Azelaic acid

Azelaic acid has a simple structure, consisting only of carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen atoms. It occurs naturally in cereals such as wheat, rye, and barley, and is also produced by the yeast Malassezia furfur, which is part of the natural microflora of human skin.

Properties and action of azelaic acid

Azelaic acid is a broad-spectrum ingredient in dermatology and cosmetology:

• Anti-inflammatory properties – it soothes skin inflammation, reducing redness and swelling, making it an effective ingredient in the treatment of rosacea and other inflammatory skin conditions. It also soothes skin with signs of hormonal acne, reducing unpleasant symptoms such as itching and burning.
• Antibacterial action – inhibits the growth of anaerobic bacteria, such as Propionibacterium acnes , and aerobic bacteria, such as Staphylococcus epidermidis , which are responsible for skin inflammation and acne vulgaris. This effectively reduces the formation of pimples and blackheads.
• Keratolytic and comedolytic properties – it has exfoliating properties, gently exfoliating dead skin cells and accelerating the cell renewal process. Its keratolytic action helps prevent clogged pores and the formation of comedones, and also normalizes the process of epidermal keratinization, reducing the number of comedones and blemishes.
• Brightening effect – it reduces melanocyte activity by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, which is responsible for melanin production. This effectively lightens post-inflammatory discolorations, those caused by sun exposure or hormonal changes, and also reduces the visibility of existing pigmentation spots.
• Antioxidant properties – It is a powerful antioxidant, meaning it neutralizes free radicals responsible for premature skin aging and inflammation. It also strengthens the skin’s protective barrier, counteracting the harmful effects of external factors.
• Seboregulating action – Regulates sebum production by the sebaceous glands, preventing excessive sebum secretion and reducing the risk of blackheads.

Application of azelaic acid

Azelaic acid is widely used in dermatology and cosmetology. It is suitable for various skin types, including oily, acne-prone, sensitive, and couperose skin, as well as skin showing the first signs of aging. It can be used year-round because it does not exhibit photosensitizing properties. It is used in anti-acne, brightening, and sebum-regulating products, and as an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent.

Azelaic acid is considered a safe ingredient, but its use may cause side effects such as burning, redness, dryness, irritation, peeling, or itching at the application site. It is not recommended for use in cases of active skin infections, hypersensitivity to the ingredient, or during therapy with vitamin A derivatives.