Mandelic acid

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Mandelic acid (CAS: 90-64-2), also known as Mandelic Acid , is an organic chemical compound belonging to the group of alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs). It has the structure C₈H₈O₃ and in its pure form occurs as white, crystalline flakes. Mandelic acid is naturally obtained from bitter almonds.

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Properties and effects of mandelic acid:

Reduces discoloration – Mandelic acid brightens various types of discoloration, such as those caused by the sun (sun spots), hormonal changes, acne, and aging. Its brightening effect is based on inhibiting tyrosinase, a key enzyme in melanin production (melanogenesis).

Smoothing effect – Mandelic acid has the ability to stimulate the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) and support the production of collagen and elastin. This results in smoother skin and reduced wrinkle visibility.

Skin exfoliation – Mandelic acid belongs to the AHA group, so it has a keratolytic effect – it exfoliates dead skin cells by loosening the bonds between them and the intercellular cement. This process supports cell renewal and unclogs sebaceous glands, thus preventing the formation of comedones and inflammation. Thanks to its large molecules, it penetrates the skin gradually, acting more gently than other AHA acids, making it suitable for sensitive skin as well.

Evens out skin tone – Gentle exfoliation removes dead skin cells that can cause uneven skin tone. Regular use of mandelic acid evens out skin tone in cases of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, freckles, and melasma.

Application

Products containing mandelic acid are especially recommended for problematic, oily, combination, and acne-prone skin, as well as mature, dry, and tired skin. This mild acid can be used by people with sensitive and couperose-prone skin, as well as by pregnant women, provided the acid concentration does not exceed 10-15%.

It’s recommended to use mandelic acid in the evening, after thoroughly cleansing the skin, due to its photosensitizing properties. Remember to protect your skin from UV radiation during the day by using creams with a high sun protection factor.

Mandelic acid is one of the milder AHA acids, but its use may cause irritation in people with sensitive skin or if used incorrectly.

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